Morocco is unlike anywhere I have ever been. If I had to sum it up in one word, it would have to be intense. The medina in Fes was incredible! It was filled with winding roads, filled with people, donkeys, goods and more people. The smell of kabob fills the air. It is definitely an authentic Moroccan city, and I highly recommend a visit if you ever find yourself in Morocco.
From Fes, we made a beeline for Marrakech. It was an 8 hour train ride and we were running late so we paid slightly more for first class. First class just means you have an assigned seat and you sit in little rooms like the trains in Harry Potter, or The Darjeeling Limited. We didn’t want to risk not being able to sit together in second class. There was a couple from Dakkar and two women from Algeria with their two kids in our room. Everyone else spoke mostly French so for awhile Jon and I just chatted amongst ourselves. But the little girl in our room would not be deterred by a mere language disparity. Within the first hour she was climbing all over me and saying “I speaka Engleesh” over and over again. The highlight of our meeting though for her must have been the moment she discovered the two hair ties I had around my wrist. She promptly took them off and started “styling” my hair in various configurations. She was really cute, if a little hyper. She kept singing in French which was really adorable. At one point she even busted out with the tune from the Smurfs! I guess the show was invented in Germany and was called the Shmoofkins or something like that…
Anyway, we arrived in Marrakech that evening and took a taxi to the riad we were staying in. A riad is a traditional Moroccan home. Many of them have been turned into guest houses. They are hidden behind walls, have a courtyard and fountains etc. They are really quite lovely. It was very surreal to be walking up the old steps to our room as the sound of the Mullah calling the faithful to prayer rang out throughout the city. It’s hard to put into words the kind of emotions the sound evokes. I remain moved everytime I hear it.
This is the mosque closest to our riad.
After dropping our bags off we decided to treat ourselves to a nice meal while the exchange rate was still working for us. (The dollar is worth squat in Europe at the moment). The restaurant was phenomenol. There were candles everywhere and a man strumming the oud. It was really peaceful.
That is where the peace ended though. Marrakech is CRAZY! The traffic is insane. People, horses, bicycles, scooters, cars, and trucks co-exist in a perpetual state of frenzy. You have to give yourself up to the skill of your taxi driver everytime you enter a cab. Crossing the street becomes a strategic play for your life. And yet, I have seen no accidents… amazingly.
Yesterday we spent the day in the souks (outdoor market) which is definitely tamer than the ones in Fes. There are many more Western faces here and the city has a much more cosmopolitan vibe. I’d say about 70% of the women here cover their hair but many wear stylish clothes and high heels too. Out of respect I’ve been trying to wear more conservative clothes as everything I’ve read indicated that women showing their legs or upper arms here can be equated with a dude walking around in a speedo in the States. It’s been a bit hard though because I only brought one longer sleeved shirt! I’ve made due though just wearing pants and my jacket for the most part. It’s actually been a little cool so it makes it easier.
As the sun was setting last night we were sitting on a terrace overlooking the main square. There were three mosques on various sides of the square and when the call to prayer started from each it was an amazing thing to witness. The calls rang out almost in song, the person in each minaret attempting to be heard over the other. From our location we could see the throngs entering the mosque closest to us. Each person entering the mosque bent over at the entrance to remove their shoes giving me the impression of waves lapping at the door.
Once the sun goes down in Marrakech, the real party begins. There is a huge plaza that fills with kabob stands, henna artists, fortune tellers, fire eaters, and snake charmers. It is amazing.
Okay, that’s all I’m going to write from Morocco. Jon and I are flying back to Spain this evening.
Over and out from Marrakech.
This Way Maybe 